Skiing Switzerland’s Bold New Frontier
Switzerland has long prided itself on neutrality, resisting invasion and guarding its independence for centuries. Then Vail Resorts showed up. With its acquisition of Andermatt—and later Crans-Montana—the American ski giant now holds a controlling interest in two of the most storied resorts in the Swiss Alps. The question many skiers are asking: are the famously independent Swiss finally ready to embrace outsiders on their slopes?
For those following European ski news, this was the story of the year. After all, Vail Resorts expanding into Switzerland is no small development. Skiers across Europe and North America suddenly realized that with an Epic Pass in hand, Andermatt is now part of their winter playground. The move raised eyebrows: after ski resorts, what might Switzerland sell next? Chocolate? Red pocketknives? Basel?
Determined to investigate, I teamed up with longtime Ski Canada editor Iain MacMillan and set our sights on Andermatt—a destination perched at the western end of central Switzerland’s largest ski domain. Here, the pistes of Andermatt link seamlessly with Sedrun and Disentis, delivering 180km of runs, 33 lifts, and a mix of terrain that swings from village-to-village groomers to steep off-piste classics that test the lungs and nerves.
The Journey: From Canada to the Heart of the Alps
Getting to Andermatt is easier than you’d think. Air Canada flies daily, nonstop, from Toronto or Montreal to Zurich, cutting out the luggage-losing roulette of connections. From Zurich airport, a two-hour train ride delivers you directly into the heart of town—an experience that’s as much a part of Swiss skiing as the mountains themselves. Wooden interiors, leather seats, and views of snowy peaks and grazing cows make this a journey to savor.
Arriving in Andermatt, you’ll find the village much the same as it has always been: cobbled streets, small alpine hotels with weathered shingles, and an unmistakable charm. Yet there’s a subtle shift. On the slopes, Euro-stylish skiers in tight neon outfits now mingle with North Americans in baggy, earth-toned gear. English is spoken more often—and more loudly. Even the Swiss locals, sipping wine with their children (yes, the kids too), remark with a mix of pragmatism and dry humor: “More Americans this year. Good for business. And for the banks.”
The Vail Effect: Epic Pass Meets Swiss Pragmatism
The Vail Resorts acquisition is already changing the atmosphere. For one, the Epic Pass has opened Andermatt to a broader international audience, introducing North Americans to the beauty of Swiss skiing beyond Zermatt and St. Moritz.
Local guides, restaurants, and hotels are thrilled. “This is good news,” explains Konrad, our mountain guide, as we set out for the Gemstock tram. “More guests, more business, more opportunities. Everyone is pleased.” Swiss pragmatism is alive and well—after all, it’s more profitable to host than to resist.
And yet, skiing here remains strikingly Swiss. Lift lines are almost nonexistent. Even if they tripled, you’d still only be waiting behind a dozen people. Compare that to Vail or Whistler on a powder day, and you start to understand the appeal.
Local guides, restaurants, and hotels are thrilled.
Skiing Andermatt: From Rolling Blues to Steep Gullies
For intermediate skiers, Andermatt delivers quintessential European skiing: rolling blue and red pistes linking one chocolate-box village to the next, all with breathtaking alpine backdrops. A hop on the little red train carries you across valleys with minimal effort, ensuring even the most leisurely skier can maximize their day without ever feeling rushed.
But Andermatt also caters to adventurers. Under Konrad’s guidance, we strapped on skins and ventured beyond the lifts into a world of steep, wind-carved gullies and wide glaciers. This is no manicured North American resort with ropes and patrols. Here, skiing off-piste is both a freedom and a responsibility: your risk, your reward.
I follow Konrad up a 50-degree chute, my lungs protesting in the thin alpine air. The snow sluffs beneath my skis, rocks looming close below. It’s intense, raw, and exhilarating—the kind of terrain that tests both skill and nerve. When we finally arc down onto an open glacier, the relief is palpable. There’s not a rope, not a boundary, not a patroller in sight. Just snow, mountains, and the intoxicating sense of freedom.
Switzerland Remains Switzerland
Despite the new corporate ownership, Andermatt retains its identity. The Gemstock still towers above town, trains still clack toward Oberalppass, and the old town still hums quietly at dusk with window shoppers and boutique strollers. Vail may have brought in global marketing and the Epic Pass crowd, but Switzerland is still Switzerland: orderly, pragmatic, and beautiful.
Yes, the Swiss may have allowed their ski resorts to align with an American powerhouse, but don’t expect their core traditions to change. Quiet after 8 p.m. remains non-negotiable. Andermatt might be Epic now, but it’s still uniquely Swiss—an alpine destination that blends history, charm, and world-class skiing in a way that no corporate acquisition can erase.
Three delicious Andermatt outings
- Take the train to Disentis, ski blue runs through stunning alpine scenery, enjoy a late lunch stop at the Onberalppass on your way back to Andermatt.
- Have a gastro day: A sumptuous breakfast at the Radisson, linger over a Japanese lunch at the on-hill, Michelin-starred restaurant at Gutsch, then wander the old town and hunt down a traditional Swiss rosti for après.
- Ski tour out the back of the Gemstock and enjoy the endless runs back to the valley: It doesn’t matter where you pop out, there’s always a farm, café or bar with beer.
