POWER LIFTING
In an industry that’s always
working on its quads, Marmot
Basin ’s newest chair will
noticeably change the face of
the Jasper ski area.
By Monica Andreeff * Photos: Frederic Legault
Jasper old-timers may still be
recalling fondly that November
2009 as he snowiest in at least
30,maybe 40 years.But everyone agrees it
was simply the icing on powdery cake with
the opening of the $8-million high-speed
quad chairlift,the Canadian Rockies Express,
at Marmot Basin.
It now takes less than eight minutes to
soar 2.3 km from base area to mountaintop to
gain near-instant access to everything from
long, winding novice runs to steep alpine
bowls and chutes.What used to involve two
slower lifts, and far more time to rise nearly
600 vertical metres, is a memory. Gone are the
old Tranquilizer Chair and Kiefer T-bar, along
with their towers, to ski lift heaven, dragged
out over the snow (thus saving fragile alpine
terrain) within three days of the resort’s
closing last spring. Welcomed are the lift’s
former cutlines as new runs.
To properly honour a T-bar that hauled
up countless bottoms over more than 30
years of service, the Kiefer was retired with
due pomp and ceremony. A colourful crowd
of local “dignitaries ”—including namesake
Wayne Kiefer and legendary Marmot ski school
director Joe Couture—traded old memories.
“Forgive them, Ullr! ” shouted lone-protester Charlie
Findlay in a plea to the legendary snow god on the
Kiefer t-bar’s last day in April.
But there were mixed emotions. Security
was ramped up after rogue souvenir hunters
managed to ski off with a few Ts. And plenty
of final-day faithfuls cranked lap after lap in
crazy retro gear to time it so they were on the “official ” last ride up the old friend.
But life moves on. 'It’s like asking your
wife, "Honey, do I really need to get rid of my
mullet? It’s been 30 years,’” quipped Brian
Rode, Marmot’s VP of marketing. 'But once
it’s cut, it’s gone and you don’t miss it at all. ”
From a local’s perspective, Jasper resident
Steve Blake says that it simply changes the
place, it’s like a new ski area. "It puts people
into different areas of the mountain —which
is great. Your favourite runs will be different
now because they ’re quicker to get to.”
For people who care about numbers
like uphill lift capacity, Marmot ’s is now a
staggering 12,150 people per hour, which is
impressive when you look at its daily number
of skiers: less than 1,000 bodies midweek and
just over 3,000, give or take, on weekends.
For Marmot skiers,it means uncrowded
slopes, no lift lines and plenty of powder
(for days) across cut trails and above-alpine terrain.“When it snows, the tracks don’t get
consumed because there are so few people
here,”” agrees Ange Blake, a nurse and former
ski patroller who cut through the powder-
choked trees on Milk Run like a hot knife on
butter. “With the sun out and soft snow,it
doesn get any better than that —really! ”
Marmot has slowly but surely bootpacked
up toward modern resort status in the last
half-dozen years,spending more than $16
million on expanded terrain, snowmaking and
improved lodges. And only 20 minutes away
from the resort, laid-back Jasper retains its
quirky small-town charm amid continuous
upgrades to its restaurants, shopping and
entertainment options. pick up a copy of
the free newspaper, The Fitzhugh , for
a list of the weekly live music events by an
understated core of local musicians. Grab your
coffee at Coco ’s, a morning ritual for skiers
who love fresh-roasted beans and organic
breakfast treats. Try après ski at the D’ed
Dog Bar & Grill every Friday for the ever-
popular Happy Hour. Or drop into locally
owned restaurants such as Andy’s Bistro for
moderately priced Swiss-European flavours;
Evil Dave’s for family-friendly comfort food;
or Fiddle River for seafood, game meats and
beef. The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is the
undisputed luxury leader, but there are plenty
of mid-priced inns such as the Jasper Inn and
Sawridge Inn. Families on a budget should
check out the “Shared ccommodations” options in residents ’ homes, which is a bit of
misnomer since most have private entrances,
kitchens and lounge areas.
The Marmot-Jasper combo is becoming
almost unique in a North American ski
scene dominated by purpose-built, slopeside
ski resorts full of quiet condos with beige
carpeting and faux-gas fireplaces. The
advantages are obvious at Marmot.
facts +stats ∞
•Who: Marmot Basin is perfect for families or
anyone simply looking for great skiing,a good price,
wildlife galore and spectacular mountain scenery.
•What else: Swim, hot tub and water slide at the
public recreation centre (or at your hotel); skate at
The Lodge; tour the Maligne Ice Canyon day or night;
or enjoy Jasper National Park by dogsled, snowshoe
and snowmobile.
•Where:Four hours (366 km) west of Edmonton by
car, or travel in style aboard VIA Rail Snow Train from
Vancouver or Toronto.
•When:All season long, but Jasper in January is a
two-week festival packed with wine, food and music
events, along with great package deals.
•Why: Quality, value, uncrowded slopes, dry, light
snow —and friendly locals.
•How: Ski Marmot
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