32 of Canada's Best
from Travel Guide 2010 issue
Looking for something new and
different or just heading to familiar
grounds? With all the skiing to be
done this winter, your research
starts here with Ski Canada’s annual guide to our favourite
destinations—right here at home.
by LESLIE WOIT
LAKE LOUISE, SUNSHINE,
NORQUAY
www.skibig3.com
877/754-7080
Enough with the hackneyed-twins fantasy:
How about playing with some truly shapely
triplets near Banff? Between them, there’s
more than 3,200 hectares of terrain and three
fine ski resorts smack in the heart of Canada’s
protected playground, Banff National Park. Plus
the classic ski town of Banff is an international
favourite. All day and into the night, plus one
of the longest ski seasons in North America, ski
the big three from early November to mid-May.
RUNS Together, they share their 274 runs
on one lift pass. Lake Louise is the giant with
more than 1,700 hectares of terrain spread
across four faces with beginner to expert runs
from every chair. For more than 80 years,
Sunshine Village has been getting bigger, better
and longer—it’s open from early November
until late May, with a historical average annual
snowfall 10 metres. Ski in both Alberta and
B.C. on the same run. The local’s fave, Norquay,
offers the only nightskiing in the area and is
just minutes from downtown Banff.
POWDER Check out remote bowls like
Purple at Lake Louise, or controlled backcountry
zones including Delirium Dive at Sunshine, or get
a slow start in Banff and do Norquay cruisers all
afternoon. Take a three-day Club Ski program and
visit all the resorts with one instructor. Your ski
pro will show you the best places to find powder,
as well as teach you how to love it.
PARK Sunshine’s Rogers Terrain Park has
a lucky 21 different boxes, rails and jumps
over five hectares. Back from the no-air-edict
dead, Louise’s park is right under Glacier Chair
with no extra fees or permits required for its
six+ medium-to-large jumps, and 15+ rails and
boxes. Norquay offers a fully lit terrain park,
nicknamed The Backyard by locals, with great
views over the town of Banff
SLEEPING Do it like a baron at the
Fairmont Banff Springs and Chateau Lake
Louise, like a posh princess at the Post Hotel
in Lake Louise, or an eco-romantic at the
newly renovated ski-to-the-door Sunshine
Mountain Lodge high up on the mountain. New
and historical notable stays in Banff include
the suites of the Fox Hotel, Buffalo Mountain
Resort atop Tunnel Mountain and Brewster’s
Mountain Lodge.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Banff is the
mothership for going out. Try Bison Bistro& Lounge for hipness, The Maple Leaf for the
refined crowd, Giorgio’s for classic Italian, and
The Balkan for a touch of belly dancing and
plate smashing. Top it off with a beer, or four,
at Wild Bill’s. Club scene: Hoodoo and the
Aurora, or so says first-in-line Riley.
FOOLING AROUND In the heart of a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, Banff National
Park is all things to all nature lovers. Walk
through frozen waterfalls, go snowshoeing,
skating, ice climbing, dogsledding. Take a
sleigh ride or if even that sounds strenuous,
head for the spa at the Banff Springs, also open
to non-residents. Count sheep and elk before
calling it a night. Norquay opens a new tubing park this winter.
CASTLE MOUNTAIN
www.skicastle.ca
403/627-5101
Why be a dirty rascal when you can be king
of a Castle off the beaten track in southwest
Alberta? Fiercely loyal locals remain dedicated
Castle Mountain skiers, but they’re also happy
to welcome visitors. They have lots to be
proud of, including some fantastically long,
uninterrupted fall-line steeps bathed in more
than 900 cm annually of deep, light powder.
Cat-lovers rejoice, this year Castle offers the
only lift-accessed cat-skiing we know, opening
Haig Bowl’s light, dry and copious stash to
anyone who’s happy to hike less and ride more.
RUNS Modest numbers, yes—around 70
runs—but not a crowd in sight. The longest
run is five km and Castle is just three years
into treating us to a completely new mountain.
Mount Haig opened in 2006, adding some
fab new terrain replete with intermediate
and novice runs. Looking for something more
gnarlsome? Try Super South.
POWDER The warm downslope wind over
the Rockies can blow, but it also delivers the
goods. Ski it off the lift or forge into local
backcountry, lovingly referred to as Land of the
Wild & Woolly. New glading this year makes a
great freeride mountain amazing.
SLEEPING Slopeside and nearby cabins
and lodges offer something for everyone.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Line ’em up at the
T-bar Pub, stumbling distance from the lift. A
Canuck classic.
MARMOT BASIN
www.skimarmot.com
866/952-3816
Short on hassle and long on natural beauty,
quality snow, length of ski season, varied
accommodation—and elk droppings. Go deep
in rugged Jasper National Park in the Rocky
Mountains, where Marmot Basin claims the
highest base elevation of all Canadian ski areas
and a charming ski town that hasn’t been killed
by the slopeside condo. New this season, the
Canadian Rockies Express is whisking skiers
up nearly 600 vertical metres (the biggest in
Alberta) in less than eight minutes. Arrive in
style aboard Via Rail’s gleaming cruise ship
The Canadian, with service from Toronto and
Vancouver three times a week.
RUNS There are some 86 named runs
across four distinct areas of the resort. With
varied terrain from cut runs, bowls and glades
to wide-open cruisers and gentle slopes, this
is an all-comers-leave-happy zone. Try the new
Escalator chute under the Canadian Rockies
Express.
POWDER Averaging 400 cm of deliciously
dry Rocky Mountain powder each season, Eagle
Ridge bowls and glades make prime pickings. A
traditionally regional secret, those who know
where to look (or simply ask) can find powder
long after a storm.
PARK The Rogers Terrain Park is located
at Lift Line in the lower area of the mountain,
accessible to all abilities. And this year it’s
bigger and better.
SLEEPING The always quaint and
welcoming Town of Jasper has 25 different
possibilities, ranging from swank Jasper Park
Lodge to family motor inns, rustic cabins and
youth hostels.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Check out the suntrap
decks on the lower and mid-mountain.
In-town faves include Fiddle River and Cassios.
Home to the only brew pub in a national park,
Jasper Brewing Company uses mountain water
sourced from the Canadian Rockies.
FOOLING AROUND More than 200 km
of trails make Jasper one of the largest cross-country
ski areas in Canada, many from your
doorstep. Maligne Canyon Ice Walks tour the
deep canyon through ice-clad limestone walls,
icefalls and ice caves. Drive your own team of
dogs through the wilderness. Skate on frozen
lakes, or snowmobile and snowshoe, too. The
new Beloved Natural Healing Clinic offers an
aroma oxygen bar, foot detox, oxyvibe and
oxygen sauna.
BEST DEAL Jasper in January’s annual two-week
winter festival—January 15-31—features
discounts on adult lift tickets, deals on
accommodation, snow sculpture contests, a chili
cook-off, super demo days and more.
NAKISKA
www.skinakiska.com
800/258-7669
It’s gorgeously groomed and only 45 minutes
from Calgary. And now you can get to the top
in less than five minutes on the new Gold
Chair Express high-speed quad. This Olympic
setting deserves another medal.
RUNS Nakiska is famous for its wide-open
corduroy flare. There are 28 marked
runs, plus 14 hectares of glades and a new
100-metre magic carpet—the largest in
Alberta. This ski area is a family-pleaser with
a secure beginner’s area and some decent
challenges on the upper mountain.
SLEEPING Delta Lodge, ticker-taped-off
homebase for the G8 world leaders a few
years back, has a few stories to tell. And for
cutting loose, or if you only have the day,
Calgary is only 45 minutes away.
FOOLING AROUND The official National
Training Centre of Alpine Canada, whose
idea of fooling around is running 40k after
skiing. Every year, at least three-quarters of
the racing field at the annual Lake Louise
Winterstart World Cup trains at Nakiska prior
to the event. Come watch!
RED MOUNTAIN
www.redresort.com
800/663-0105
Pull on the pompom hat and stretchies and
head for these hills.But hurry, Red’s retro
reputation is in jeopardy, thanks to recent
improvements to both lifts and accommodation.
The massive snow that buries stop signs each
winter hasn’t changed though, nor have what
many readers tell us are the country’s best
trees, best ski town, best steeps—and did we
mention best trees?
RUNS There are 900 vertical metres of
steeps, trees, wide-open glades and corduroy
groomers. The new beginner and intermediate
terrain spans more than 45 hectares and is
accessible by the new Silverlode chair. Paradise
Basin is the ideal location for intermediates. The
hike-to Mount Roberts is a world unto itself.
POWDER Trees, trees, trees—and lots
of fluffy stuff in between. Farther afield is
lots of easy-to-access backcountry. Big Red
Cats snowcat skiing, with likely the most
reasonable rates in the country, is 10 minutes
down the road.
PARK Red Park includes 15 rails, funboxes
and tabletop jumps with features for all levels.
There are new jumps this year, and a sound
system and skiercross track.
SLEEPING T’was a time slopeside
accommodation didn’t apply, but Red Mountain
Resort Lodging has plenty of ski- or stroll-to-
the-door condo and luxury vacation home
properties in the pool today. And of course, the
historic mining town of Rossland, two minutes
away, has a wide choice of hotels and inns.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Gypsy at Red for
funky fusion and, new this year, The Drift
Izakaya serves Japanese tapas.
FOOLING AROUND Cross-country skiing,
snowshoeing, snowmobiling and dogsledding,
and an outdoor skating rink opens this winter
at the base of the mountain.
BEST DEALS Half-day lift tickets on
January 6-7 and April 5, and March 15 is Ski
Free Day. Check online for season-opener
specials and extend-your-stay deals.
PANORAMA
www.panoramaresort.com
800/663-2929
The resort is located in the pretty, peaky
Purcells, smack on the warm side of the
Kootenay Rockies. With average temps in the
comfy -5C zone, everyone is happy in this
intermediate paradise—even the experts.
Panorama is unique with its award-winning
groomers, a no-hike off-piste, on-site heliskiing,
an envious outdoor hot-pool system and
slopeside condo village.
RUNS Nine lifts serve 120 named runs,
much of it as smooth as your baby’s bottom and
as long as... There are loads of groomed fall-line
cruisers and a large beginner’s area featuring
a 135-metre-long carpet lift. The season lasts
from mid-December to mid-April, although preseason
race training starts early November.
POWDER Head for the “backcountry-style” runs of Taynton Bowl, formerly the terrain of
RK Heliski. Expect great powder on Never Never
Land, C-Spine and Heli-High.
PARK There’s one to start on, The Small-
Medium, then one for later, too. Parkheads can
progress to Showoff Park, rated up to XL and
one of the biggest of the big.
SLEEPING All condos, townhomes and
hotel rooms are ski-in/ski-out or just a short
stroll, or gondola ride, from dining, shopping
and activities. Panorama lodging guests receive
complimentary access to Panorama Springs Hot
Pools, Canada’s biggest slopeside hot tubs.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Even though
every condo has a full kitchen, don’t miss out
on Pano’s Earl Grey Lodge, Jackpine Pub, the
Summit or Choppers Landing in the RK Heliplex.
The centre of nighttime activity is the T-Bar
and Grill, with live music on the weekends.
FOOLING AROUND In addition to all the
usual amusements—dogsledding, tubing etc— the outdoor pools and slides keep kids endlessly
entertained, and the bead-making classes are a
hit with the chicks.
KICKING HORSE
www.kickinghorseresort.com
866/754-5425
A freeskiers' fave, The Horse tops out at an
impressive 2,450 metres, and nearly 10 years after
it first hung out the shingle, the princess of the
Purcells is beginning to come of age. The eight-passenger
Golden Eagle gondola delivers three big
alpine bowls, massive terrain, excellent food at
the Eagle’s Eye—and some heavenly vistas.
RUNS In all, more than 100 named
runs—including 70 in-bounds chutes—riddle
the hills above Golden. Favourite runs include
the advanced-only Truth #94 or Dare #95,
double-black chutes that require a boot back
to the summit of Terminator peak and then an
exhilarating slide into Bowl Over. Intermediates
are on Cloud Nine, from the top of Stairway to
Heaven down through Crystal Bowl. And the
perfect 10 is the easiest way down from the top
of Eagle’s Eye.
POWDER Whitewall is the spot for good
skiers, but ridges get wind-blown so often that
it can double the snow in the chutes. Even the
lower mountain has nice glades and tree skiing.
Several nearby powder outfi ts beckon, including
Rudy Gertsch’s Purcell Helicopter Skiing.
SLEEPING Aside from everything in town,
an assortment of ski-in/ski-out accommodation
now includes hotel suites right at the base of the mountain, as well as condos at the Aspens or
Selkirk, plus high-end private chalets.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Go straight to
the top for a memorable meal at Eagle’s Eye
then come back down, lower...lower...to the
Roadhouse Tavern (aka The Lodge), Golden’s
infamous peeler bar. Others on-mountain
include: Heaven’s Door Yurt, Sushi Kuma
and Scottish pub Local Hero. Try Taps and
Riverhouse in downtown Golden for serious
après and avant.
FOOLING AROUND Northern Lights
Wildlife Wolf Centre is home to a pack of
greys with daily interpretive talks right at the
fence. Also tubing, skating, cross-country,
snowshoeing.
FERNIE
www.skifernie.com
877/333-2339
As powder goes, Fernie’s is deep. With an
average of almost 10 metres of natural snow
a season, this Elk Valley mountainscape is
blessed—and the historical mining town has
enough charm you may just stay permanently.
RUNS Choose your adventure. There are 114
runs, 10 lifts and an 870-vertical-metre drop.
The Deer and Elk chairlifts access wide, daily
groomed rolling slopes perfect for all ages of
beginner and intermediate skiers. Most runs in
Lizard and Cedar Bowls are intermediate, and
fatheads love the glades, steeps and powder in
the many bowls and chutes.
POWDER The limestone cliffs of the
Lizard Range regularly serve fresh powder for
breakfast, lunch and dinner. The famous glades
and “side-country” skiing are among the finest
in Western Canada.
SLEEPING Enjoy ski-in/ski-out
convenience at the retro Lizard Creek Lodge.
Or soak in your own private hot tub in a fourstar
mountain hideaway—chalets are available
through central booking.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Head for the on-mountain
Griz Bar, the watering hole for skiers
and riders since 1962. Don’t miss the Red Tree
Lodge, Curry Bowl and the sushi at Yamagoya.
In town there’s no shortage of places to eat,
drink and be merry.
FOOLING AROUND Dump off the kids
at their own movie night, or get them lost
and found while geo-caching or doing winter
skills orientation. There are also dogsled
tours, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and
snowmobile tours.
SUN PEAKS
www.sunpeaksresort.com
800/807-3257
Exactement comme en Tyrol…a picturesque
ski-through purpose-built village, heaps of
terrain (including above-alpine) across three
mountains—yet, ooh-la-la, not a lift line in
sight. Where do we sign up?
RUNS There are 122 named runs spread over three mountains—uncrowded cruisers,
bowls and glades, with handy access to
beginner through advanced runs from the
top of every chair. For an adrenaline rush
head to Challenger on Tod Mountain; for
glades head for The Gils or Mount Morrisey.
POWDER Dig in! The region is rightly
renowned for its dry, easy-to-ski powder.
For some of the best stashes, head to the
trees off Spillway or Headwalls. There are
12 gladed areas, two bowls and some sweet
steep-and-deep off Top of the World.
PARK About four hectares of playpen
with three different zones, each for different
ability levels. Clinics teach smart, safe style.
SLEEPING Ski-in/ski-out in the heart
of the village from a selection of hotels and
family or group-friendly condo suites with
kitchens. There’s the well-established Delta
and Cahilty and just down by the ol’ gum
tree, The Kookaburra Lodge opens this winter.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Tod Mountain
Coffee House & Crêperie in the Hearthstone
Lodge for a breakfast wrap or waffle to start.
Sunburst Lodge, located mid-mountain at
the top of the Sunburst Express chairlift for
lunch. For drinks, do Bottoms in the Coast
Sundance Lodge. Boogie-heads aim for
Mackdaddy’s in the Delta at weekends. If it’s
good enough for the Austrian ski team, it’s
good enough for us.
FOOLING AROUND Plenty!
Dogsledding, snowmobiling, snowshoeing and
activities for the kids such as skating under
the stars, tubing, bungee jump trampoline
and outdoor swimming.
BIG WHITE
www.bigwhite.com
800/663-2772
“It’s the snow” is Big White’s deserving motto,
nearly seven metres of it, all as natural as the
driven...well, you get the picture. Size-wise, the
international (Aussie-owned) resort is second in
the province only to Whistler, with five alpine
bowls and a virtually 100-per-cent ski-to-the-door
village. And did we mention the snow?
RUNS At the top, explore the famous
Enchanted Forest full of snow ghosts—the
funky frosted trees unique to Big White. With
more than 118 runs, there’s something for
everyone from the seven-km cruise on Around
the World to the many steep bowls and chutes
off the aptly named Cliff chair.
POWDER You’re in the B.C. Interior, open
wide to gallons of dry champagne powder. Big
White’s five alpine bowls ensure making tracks
is a way of life.
PARK Pounding music, a boardercross
course, and dozens of rails and spines are
serviced by its own lift and lit for night
sessions. It’s fly.
SLEEPING From hostel and private rooms
for less than $60 a night to spacious condos
like Stonebridge Lodge or vacation homes
with private hot tubs on the deck. (Order your
groceries and have them delivered to your
chalet before you arrive.) Hotels include Inn at
Big White, White Crystal Inn and the Chateau
Big White.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ For dinner, try Kettle
Valley Steakhouse, with wines from more than
100 local B.C. wineries. For lunch, the Soup
Stone Bistro is a must, and for breakfast, Beano’s
has the best coffee on the mountain. Snowshoe
Sam’s, a Ski Canada favourite, has been awarded
Best Ski Bar honours more than once.
FOOLING AROUND Kiddy fun galore.
Happy Valley Adventure Centre is home to the
Mega Snow Coaster Tube Park and Canada’s
highest-altitude outdoor rink. Also dogsledding
and snowmobile tours; you can even rent a
pint-sized sled for the tots.
BEST DEAL Fly from Toronto with WestJet
and ski for free the day you arrive at Big White.
Having a perfect-sized airport like Kelowna only
45 minutes away is a solid bonus.
WHISTLER-BLACKCOMB
www.whistlerblackcomb.com
866/218-9690
Who’s your Olympic-size ski resort now? The
five-ring circus is coming to town and, yes,
the mountains are completely OPEN. Even
during the couple of weeks when the Games
are on, the mountains are indeed 90 per cent
open to the public. If you haven’t yet swung,
Peak2Peak Gondola sails between the two
mountains—across storeys of air beneath its
glass floors—in just 11 minutes. Some naïve
travellers think 2010 might be a season to
skip, but savvy skiers already know WB’s best
deals ever are being offered this winter. Let
the games, all sorts of them, commence.
RUNS Two mountains—a million and
one routes. Yes, folks, forget the metric
system for this one: it’s a vertical mile of
incredible skiing with at least 16
alpine bowls, three glaciers and
200 named runs.
POWDER Uh…chute, dude...
where’s my bowl? Over there, right
under the lift and in the endless
tracts of backcountry and nearby
cat- and heli-skiing.
PARK Five parks, one superpipe
and one skiercross track.
SLEEPING What’s that? But
if you insist, choices range from
glam at the Fairmont and the
Four Seasons, to boutique at the
Sundial—and a small city’s worth
of condoage and holiday homes.
EATIN' & A-BOOZIN' Yes,
please. Wine-a-go-go at the
Bearfoot Bistro and fab tasting
menu at the bar. Sushi Village
is still a local’s must. Araxi, very
smooth. Don’t get me started...
Oh, and coffee bars, they’re
everywhere. For boozing—first, the
Longhorn (especially in the sun),
The Garibaldi Lift Co. (GLC) and
Merlin’s. Et puis, The Mix is great
for ’tinis before hectic action at
Savage Beagle and Tommy’s and...
FOOLING AROUND You
name it, they’ve packaged it.
All the usuals, nicely done, plus
ziptrek, tasting tours, snowcat
tours, sno-limo touring, wildlife
tours...
BEST DEAL Free music all
week (and a lot more) at the
annual TWSS Festival in April.
SHAMES
www.shamesmountain.com
250/635-3773
Located 35 km west of Terrace, B.C., this Coast
Mountains resort gets pummelled with more than
12 metres of the white stuff each winter. For the
metrically challenged, that’s 40 feet. Yowzers.
RUNS There are 28 trails and 45 hectares
of natural glades served by one double chair,
a T-bar and a handle tow. Not vying for the
biggest, but with snow like this it’s among the
deepest.
POWDER See above. All 12 metres of it.
PARK Ride the Rodeo, cowboy.
SLEEPING All the B.C. classics—Sandman,
The Coast…—with lift-tickets deals, too.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Back Eddy Pub is
the local watering hole, and Hanky Panky’s for
the pool tables.
FOOLING AROUND Try Mount Layton
Hotsprings Resort for odourless ozone-treated
mineral waters.
KIMBERLEY
www.skikimberley.com
877/754-5462
Relaxed Purcell living and playing awaits.
Some 80 named runs and glades across two
mountain faces, and a nice choice of skiin/
out accommodation next to a delightful
little town of friendly and welcoming
Kootenayites and a whole pile of keen
Saskatchewan skiers.
RUNS Glading is the name of the
game here, with a quarter-million-dollar
investment in run improvement and brush
cutting, which means that the Black Forest
Glades, off the Tamarack Chair, are the place
to be if you love skiing deep untracked.
POWDER It’s light and dry because of the
higher elevation and can measure up to four
metres in a normal season. You won’t have to
fight for first tracks, or seconds, or thirds...
PARK RCR Rail Park offers bars, boxes
and rails.
SLEEPING There are plenty of condos
and hotels on the mountain, such as
Trickle Creek Lodge, that offer ski in/skiout
convenience. Solace on the Mountain,
a charming B&B, is run by ex-Canadian
national team racer Darren Thorburn. Or
stay in a town and celebrate 1970s Bavarian
kitsch.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ There’s plenty of
German fare served here, but the best place
to steep yourself in history is The Old (very
old) Bauernhaus Restaurant. Check out a
new restaurant, The Village Bistro. Breakfast
at BJ’s or pick up home-baked goods and
coffee at The Bean Tree. Try Stemwinder
for weekend après music or Kimberley
pubs such as The Ozone, The Sully and The
Kimbrook.
FOOLING AROUND Go curling,
bowling, dogsledding and snowmobiling;
and ice skating at the resort village with
s’mores and a toasty bonfire.
REVELSTOKE
www.revelstokemountainresort.com
866/373-4754
Turns out the magical three words aren’t I love
you, after all. They’re lift, cat, heli. This resort
offers all three options from one easy base, as
well as North America’s longest vertical, 1,713
metres. They’re busy filling in the rest of the
gaps—but what a starting point.
RUNS Up to 52 and counting. The longest
run is Last Spike, which will clock up a thigh-toasting
15 km. They’ve carved out 10 per
cent beginner runs, and the rest is pretty
evenly divided among strong intermediate,
advanced and expert pitches.
POWDER Off the lifts, hit the deep
within 13 gladed areas and three whopping,
whooping bowls wallowing in 12-18 metres
of snow a year. Cat and heli-skiing can be
done by the day, starting at less than $500.
SLEEPING Opened in March 2009, The
Nelsen Lodge is at the base area and suites
are sweet—big bathrooms, kitchens, I-pod
docks and washer-dryers. Otherwise, more than
20 hotels, motels, inns, B&Bs, cabins in and
around one of Ski Canada’s five top ski towns
in the country.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Great Oso Negro
coffee at the day lodge and a skier’s town full
of options.
FOOLING AROUND You’re in the midst
of skidooland. Prepare yourself.
APEX
www.apexresort.com
877/777-2739
Here’s something to warm up to. With an
average temperature of -4C and low humidity,
Apex receives about 600 cm of dry Okanagan
powder each season. And it’s just a 30-minute
drive from Penticton, B.C.
RUNS It has four lifts serving a decent 67
runs, and a nice terrain mix of 16% novice,
48% intermediate and 36% advanced/expert
with a bit of everything from cruisers to the
steepest of chutes. Just the high-speed quad
delivers more than 650 metres of vertical. Apex
is also a National Training Centre for freestyle
aerials and moguls.
POWDER Go for the steep and steeper
chutes, and stay for the south bowls, or cruise
through the glades in the Wild Side for extra
variety.
PARK Two of them, and you can ride Tim
Hortons Tube Park day and night.
SLEEPING All close by: B&B, hostel, hotel
accommodation and ski in/out condos.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Gunbarrel Saloon
and the Three:Thirty Grill for après.
FOOLING AROUND Nightskiing, lift-accessed
tube park, outdoor hockey/skating
rink and a one-km ice-skating loop, plus a
World Cup aerial site and mogul course.
SILVER STAR
www.skisilverstar.com
800/663-4431
It’s like a mining town, but here the silver
comes from above (and there’s not much
black-faced poverty). More than 700 cm of
the Okanagan’s light, dry powder snow falls
on the slopes of Silver Star every year, and a
rare-in-the-ski-world south-facing mountain
is appreciated on a sunny day. The Star is a
ski in/ski out delight for the entire family.
RUNS There are nearly 100 km of marked
runs—some 115 different ones to keep you
moving and entertained. Loads of variety and
great grooming, too, on Vance Creek’s wide,
uncrowded slopes as well as some wonderful
views of the Monashees.
POWDER More than 60 runs off the high-speed
Powder Gulch Quad. Putnam Creek’s
black-diamond runs and light powder are the
motherlode.
PARK Terrain Park & Rail Garden is a
progressive-oriented 6.5 hectares.
SLEEPING Good selection of hotels, ski
hostel, spacious vacation homes, and suites
and condos. This pedestrian, mid-mountain
village provides ski-in/ski-out access from
every door.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Start with the
Bean To Cup for breakfast, and work your
way through Bugaboos, Long John’s Pub,
The Saloon, Bulldog and The Den, with fine
dining at the Silver Grill Steak and Chop
House, Isidore’s and Paradise Camp, 20
minutes by snowcat.
FOOLING AROUND The Canadian,
U.S., Australian, Norwegian and Finnish
national teams train on the famous cross-country
trails here. And you can, too. There
are two fully certified biathlon ranges as
well, plus tubing, skating, snowmobiling and,
wait for it—bingo.
WHITEWATER
www.skiwhitewater.com
800/666-9420
Spoon it up here. Get your deeps, bowls and
glades while they’re hot, reached via such tiny
lift lines and reasonable prices. It’s white and
it’s water in the form we love most. A little
hiking and skinning will take you to the riches
and treasures of your dreams.
RUNS Two double chairs and a handle
tow—classic old-school transport to get to
modern winning goods. But WW does have 46
marked runs.
POWDER Oh, yeah. Head for the bowls,
the glades, the chutes and the trees. Did we
miss anything?
PARK Yes, there’s a rail park—but you
don’t go all the way to a national powder
epicentre like Whitewater to teeter-totter in
a park.
SLEEPING Nothing on the hill, but
nearby classic ski town and Ski Canada
favourite Nelson makes a funky nest.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Home of the
famous Fresh Tracks Café and “Whitewater
Cooks” recipe bible, plus locally brewed beer
and après snacks at Coal Oil Johnny’s Pub.
FOOLING AROUND If you missed the
annual White Smoke Festival celebrating all
things backcountry, you can always dip into
one of several nearby hot springs.
SMITHERS, HUDSON BAY
MOUNTAIN
www.hudsonbaymountain.com
866/665-4299
Whoa, something’s happening here. Just a
year ago, plans were announced to transform
a community ski hill in Smithers into a major
provincial player and already there’s a new
eight-km-long “Trail to Town.” Watch this
space—or better yet ski it first.
RUNS This northern B.C. mountain features
runs laced across two bulbous faces—think big, powdery boobies—and now a new trail
down into town gives Hudson Bay Mountain
(formerly known as Smithers) a continuous
big-mountain vertical of 1,150 metres, 533
metres lift accessed. (Okay, you can stop
thinking of big boobies now.)
POWDER This Bulkley Valley $75-million
resort-in-the-making features top-drawer,
lift-accessed powder runs.
PARK RAYZ Park rocks all ability levels
with a good mix of jumps, boxes and rails.
SLEEPING Hudson Bay Lodge or the
Aspen Inn.
EATING Sushi, pizza and wholesome
small-town fare—there’s even a Dairy Queen.
MOUNT WASHINGTON
www.mountwashington.ca
888/231-1499
It’s the hottest thirty-something in B.C.
Mount Washington is the recipient of a
legendary 10.5 metres of annual snowfall,
so no wonder the place is an Olympic
training site for Canadian, U.S., Swiss, and
Swedish snowboarders. Two hours north of
Victoria (or 30 minutes from Courtenay/
Comox), she’s Queen of the Island and a
perfect diversion for regular visitors to
the province who want to discover a new
favourite.
RUNS Some 60 runs (45% expert), nine
lifts (including a high-speed six and quad)
and 650 hectares of terrain. The Goodtime
Glades are groomed perfectly and spaced
gently, so even tree virgins can get the
feeling.
POWDER Steep-and-deep tree skiing,
a tree hugger’s paradise, and plenty o’ backcountry for those who truly know what
they’re doing.
PARK The Stomping Grounds Terrain Park
and Green Terrain Park make happy rats.
SLEEPING The pedestrian alpine
village has more than 4,000 slopeside beds
in hotel suites, condos and townhomes, as
well as upscale vacation cabins onhill and
nearby.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Fat Teddy’s and
Alpine Sushi on the mountain—what more
can you ask for?
FOOLING AROUND Ozone Snow-
Tubing Park. Golf, whale watching and,
in the spring, golf and bear watching
(sometimes at the same time), plus sea
kayaking.
MARBLE MOUNTAIN
www.skimarble.com
888/462-7253
Word is out—Marble’s visits are up 75% in 10
years. The apple of the Appalachian foothills
announced a $1.2-million investment in
2008—look out, Rock, things are on the move.
RUNS Seven mogul runs and two lovely
glade runs—from the gentle slope of Country
Road, to the scary bits of OMJ. Oh my Jesus,
you’ll love it.
POWDER Real Newfie gold dust falls at
the local Blomidon cat-skiing operation.
PARK The expanded terrain park has bigair
jumps and rails of a bright yellow car and a
fishing dory.
SLEEPING Marble Villa is true true ski-in/
ski-out accommodation and could compete
with anything slopeside out west. In the heart
of Corner Brook there’s Greenwood Inn & Suites.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Quite a lot goes
off in this part of the world, especially after
you’ve kissed the cod and it all comes to a
screeching halt. There’s Gitano’s in Corner Brook
with its mixed platter of scallops, shrimp, salt
fish cakes and live entertainment Friday night.
The Broadway area is home to The Bar Room,
Whalen’s Gate and Night Sounds.
FOOLING AROUND Husky-sledding,
cross-country skiing, ice fishing, snowboarding
and snowmobile tours, snowshoeing, ice
climbing and snow kiting zip tours.
MOUNT
ST. LOUIS MOONSTONE
www.mslm.on.ca
877/835-2112
Deep in the heart of Ontario’s snowbelt,
this place is a Hollywood screenplay in
development. It’s latest build, completed in
2006, added 10 metres of elevation to the
hill—a love story if we ever heard one. And
the love is reciprocated: MSLM has more skier visits
than the majority of resorts in B.C. and
Alberta.
RUNS There are 40 slopes and no less than
12 whizzy state-of-the-art chairlifts. Three
magic carpets fly across the largest beginner
terrain in Ontario. Three high-speed six-packs
and another high-speed quad are the envy of
most ski areas in Canada. All told, MSLM moves
an impressive 24,000 skiers per hour uphill.
PARKS The Junkyard’s smooth rails, press
boxes, kickers and Zaung superpipe aren’t the
half of it. The Outback has some of the most
progressive rails and boxes around.
BLUE MOUNTAIN
www.bluemountain.ca
877/445 0231
Draped across the scenic Niagara Escarpment,
just above icy Georgian Bay, Blue is a big kid
on a modest block—and loved by many. It has
an enviable snowmaking system, a commanding
view of Georgian Bay and, thanks to 50%
Intrawest ownership, a noticeably high standard
of living in and around its bijou pedi-village.
RUNS There are 36 from beginner to
double-black, served by a hefty 15 lifts,
including four high-speed six-packs. 25 trails
and 10 lifts are open under the lights.
PARK Park rats have a dedicated chairlift
as well as a superpipe. Ride the rails—best in
the east.
SLEEPING Four hotels surround the
village, offering a choice of boutique and
suites. The newest addition, Mosaic at Blue,
features stone fireplaces and year-round
outdoor pool.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Spoiled for choice,
you'd think you were in Toronto: 40 restaurants,
bars and shops in the pedestrian village. Try
the new Sunset Grill for all-day breakfasts. For
après, line ’em up at Rusty’s on Thursday, Friday
and Saturday for live music.
MONT ORFORD
www.orford.com
866/673-6731
Three mountains, four faces, endless vistas.
The highest here, with an elevation of some
850 metres, is among the three tallest peaks
in Quebec. Monts Orford, Alfred-Desrochers
and Giroux await.
RUNS Nine lifts—including the funky
hybrid gondola-chairlift combo—lead to 61
trails and pretty gladed areas.
PARK One for beginners and one
restricted-access park with big air and rails.
SLEEPING Less than 15 minutes’ drive
to a delightful range of inns, hotels and B&B
options, each with its own individuality.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Cozy mountain
yurts at the summit come complete with
wood fireplaces, and a hopping microbrewery
is next to the slopes. There are plenty
of gastronomic options waiting to be
discovered.
MONT SUTTON
www.montsutton.com
866/538-2545
They’re celebrating its 50th season of charm
and hospitality at Sutton, Quebec’s gorgeously
gladed beauty. This pretty corner of Quebec is a
getaway fi lled with authentic architecture, local
farm products, artist workshops and cozy B&Bs.
RUNS We count 54—but more important
are the nearly 200 junctions that ensure
endless variety to tree-lined route finding. A
whopping 40% of the area is gladed at Sutton.
All the expert terrain is on one side of the
mountain, while easy to intermediate trails
with a family zone are on the other. Take the
little ones into the Marvellous Woods, Forêt
des merveilles.
POWDER The special microclimate delivers
magical powder to a most unexpected area.
Lately, Sutton averages more than five metres
of snowfall each year.
PARK One snowpark groomed by machine,
and by hand, each day.
SLEEPING To name a few: Hebergement
Sutton for ski-in/ski-out condos, Auberge
Altitude B&B is directly on the slopes and
Domaine Tomali Maniatyn has a pool.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Bistro Beaux Lieux
offers one of the most creative and delectable
menus. Monte Carlo serves fine Italian cuisine;
bring your own wine. Il Duetto attracts diners
all the way from Montreal.
FOOLING AROUND The decadent design-forward
Balnea Spa is a must, plus horse-drawn
sleigh rides, live music and shows, art galleries,
Vineyard museum...
BROMONT
www.skibromont.com
866/276-6668
Ski Bromont is 45 years old and it’s celebrating— day and night. It’s a happy, relaxed mountain and
there’s always someplace new to go. Bromont
has a massive 135 trails and glades distributed
over seven hillsides, not to mention the largest lit
skiable terrain in North America.
RUNS That’s right, not only are there 135
marked runs, but almost half of them are open
for nightskiing.
POWDER What’s the forest I see before me?
APRÈS SKI With a lively nightskiing crowd
both in and outside the chalet, there’s no need
to make the 45-minute drive to Montreal.
BEST DEAL This year, buy a day ticket
online for only $39.99!
LE MASSIF
www.lemassif.com
877/536-2774
Downhill skiing: it’s a natural at a mountain
that you actually ski from the top—the
same spot you also left your car. The most
spectacular riverside sceneries unfurl from these
slopes, slopes that also offer the longest skiable
vertical in Eastern Canada. All this in the heart
of a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve—with
powder. By late-October, Le Massif was already
under 39 cm. New this season is a daily shuttle
from Quebec City to Le Massif.
RUNS From atop 770 metres of vertical,
170 hectares of skiable terrain unfold from
east to west, with longer, winding trails
simply wonderful for carving and cruising. On
its western face are glades, bump fields and
extreme steeps.
POWDER Look to La 42, La Chaudière and
the hors piste sector.
PARK Camp-Boule Express is great for
intermediate and advanced park rats.
SLEEPING There are condos and chalets
everywhere in the Charlevoix: La Courtepointe
Inn in Petite-Rivière-Saint-François, at the base
of the mountain; La Grande Maison Inn in Baie-
Saint-Paul; or splash out at the Fairmont Manoir
Richelieu in La Malbaie.
EATIN’ & A-BOOZIN’ Mer & Mont will
provide a memorable lunch at the summit. For
dinner, Restaurant Le 51 and Le Saint-Pub in
downtown Baie-Saint-Paul for local delicacies.
Après-ski with live music begins at the hill.
FOOLING AROUND In Baie-Saint-Paul:
art galleries, exhibit centres, museums, studios
and boutiques—not to mention chocolatiers, a
microbrewery and fine food shops.
MONT-SAINTE-ANNE
www.mont-sainte-anne.com
888/827-4579
Looking for soigné groomers and efficient lifts?
A hop, skip and jump from Quebec City, this
is the spot. It’s pur laine—check out the onhill
sugar shack and enjoy the snow—and the
spectacular panorama of the St. Lawrence River
and the Laurentians is gratuit.
RUNS Do you like it long? Well, their
season is the east’s longest—and come
nightfall, 17 trails offer the highest vertical
for nightskiing in Canada. In the morning, 66
runs covering 69 km on three different sides,
including eight hectares of black- and doubleblack-
diamond glades that are among the
steepest in the east.
PARKS A learning park allows beginners to
warm up before crossing over to the controlled-access
XL Park, where the stunts are, not
surprisingly, extra-large.
SLEEPING More than 60 options, from
cozy country B&Bs to all-singing and dancing
hotels at the base of the mountain, in the
Mont-Sainte-Anne vicinity or in historic Quebec
City, half-an-hour’s shuttle away.
FOOLING AROUND Canyoning,
paragliding, skating, skidooing and skijoring— your skis and their dogs—with the huskies
of Les Secrets Nordiques at the base of the
mountain. Race Jacques Villeneuve at The
24 Hours of Le Mont, a test stamina open to
skiers of all ages.
OWL'S HEAD
www.owlshead.com
800/363-3342
Named for a great Abenaki native chief, Owl,
this mountain sits proudly on the western shore
of Lake Memphremagog in Quebec’s Eastern
Townships with a vertical drop of 540 metres.
RUNS Forty-four marked runs are divided
pretty equally between levels, making this a
great day out for a mixed-ability family. A new
“Super-Bois” glade covers six to eight hectares
of powder in the trees.
SLEEPING Ski-in/ski-out from your
one-, two- or three-bedroom, full-service condo
with fireplace, or the 20-room Auberge hotel.
EATIN' & BOOZIN' The Eastern
Townships are filled with quaint restaurants,
cafés, B&Bs and historic lodges that have
maintained a French charm that can’t be
replicated in a slopeside village development.
FOOLING AROUND Keep the troops busy
with billiards, foosball, darts and, the ultimate
calmer, satellite TV.
MONT TREMBLANT
www.tremblant.ca
888/738-1777
The highest peak in the Laurentians is a beacon
for skiers from all across the east—and judging
from the Russian voices we heard last season,
even farther. Tremblant really does provide what
the glossy brochures claim—family fun, lift
systems that work and a stress-free holiday that
includes valet ski service.
RUNS An impressive 95 runs serviced by 14
state-of-the-art lifts. The longest is Nansen at
six km, and the steeps are just hat—reaching
a slippery incline up to 42 degrees.
PARKS Seven hectares of ramps, rails and
jumps as well as an Olympic-calibre superpipe.
SLEEPING Heaps of condo options and
service-oriented hotels bookable through
central rez. Outside the Intrawest fold, The
Quintessence lives up to its name—the resort’s
sole true five-star that will not disappoint the
most demanding guest.
EATIN' AND BOOZIN' From romantic “old-world” wine cellars to dancing on the bar, from
family fun to casinos—there are few places in
Canada that could compete with the village of
Trembant.
FOOOLIN AROUND Snowmobiling,
dogsledding, cross-country skiing, skating,
snowshoeing, and included with Intrawest
lodging, free tubing and GT sliding jib snow
parks. Plus, crazy games for the whole family:
volleyball, giant soccer and flag games.
 STONEHAM
www.ski-stoneham.com
800/463-6888
Night owls, take your marks. Just a stone’s
throw from the bright lights and big cheeses
of Quebec City, 75 hectares that it claims is
the largest nightskiing network in Canada
await. Of course, it’s also open in the day
with enough to keep you and the family well
occupied.
RUNS Three new ‘‘sous-bois’’ bring the
total number of trails to 39 this season, and
from 16 to 19 for nightskiing.
PARK Producing some of the best jibbers
in the country, Stoneham’s Olympic–size
seven-metre halfpipe had an $800,000
investment, now ensuring a December opening
till late.
SLEEPING Hotel Stoneham, located at
the base, is undergoing a full reno. Look for
integrated ski-and-stay packages.
EATIN' AND BOOZIN' St-Edmond has a
selection of wines by the glass and tapas.
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