Best of Skiing in Canada 2009
Good, better, best... We think the 2009 Best of Skiing issue is more than
just the best this country has to offer, in fact, it’s better than ever! Over an entire year, we’ve
polled readers, writers, photographers, mountain guides, instructors, coaches, industry experts
and even weather-obsessed farmers across this land—in provinces and territories even Stephen
Harper hasn’t heard of—to deliver the goods on everything you need to try, eat, drink, ride
up, slide down and in some cases avoid like the plague. No snowflake was left unshredded in
our pursuit of Canada’s funkiest and finest snow-based experiences. Get comfy and flip at will.
TOP 5 BIGGEST VERTICAL
EAST: 1. Tremblant 2. Mont-Sainte-Anne 3. Orford/Owl’s Head (tie) 4. Marble Mountain
WEST: 1. Revelstoke 2. Whistler-Blackcomb 3. Kicking Horse 4. Panorama 5. Sunshine
BEST NEW SCENE(RY)
Getta load of the view from the top
of Revelstoke, ski runs rise straight
out of the Columbia River and up the continent's highest vertical.
BEST USE OF THE
“BEST OF” AWARD
Last season, Invermere received
our Best Town Spirit award for its
boisterous support of the World Cup
races at Panorama. Pep Club leader
Marke Dickson handed out a wall
plaque to every business in town. The
place is covered, boosting town spirit
and upping the R-value like no one’s business.
CUTEST (and possibly most effective)
lift tower pad. Fernie.
BEST WÜRST
Kimberley’s tasty
Bavarian wieners go
some distance to
making up for the
town’s matching
architecture.
BEST SPOT TO WATCH THE BEST FREESTYLE
Cypress Mountain in North Vancouver hosts the Freestyle Skiing FIS World Cup and the
Snowboard FIS World Cup in February, and what better viewing spot than from the new timberframe
Cypress Creek Lodge, which opened this season. A large family restaurant, assorted private
meeting rooms and, the highlight—a huge bar and grill—all overlook the superpipe.
BEST NEW PERMA-PIPE
They’ve been drilling and blasting at
Stoneham and have made a clever
2.5-metre bowl right into the bedrock.
To what end, you may ask? Last
year Stoneham’s seven-metre-high
superpipe—open day and night—
demanded more than 250 hours out of
the guns to create 33,000 cubic metres
of snow, and 100-plus hours of sculpting
and grooming afterward. With the newly
shaped hole, the resort cut back 40 per
cent of snowmaking and shaved weeks
off prep time.
BEST POWDER
On a powder day, you want to be alone, or
at least in pairs. So head for the Marlene
Dietrich of the backcountry. Helicat
Canada is the body that represents more
than 40 snowcat and heli-ski operators in
B.C. No fighting for first tracks, beautiful
lodges, safe guiding—what more does a
superstar want? Helicat Canada
and Backcountry Lodges of BC
And if you want to warm up for a few days
in the powder before climbing aboard the
heli or cat, Ski Canada’s top bets for the best
powder are:
› Big White › Revelstoke › Fernie › Shames › Le Massif › Silver Star › Mount Washington › Smithers › Powder King › Whitewater › Red › Whistler
BEST REASON TO EAT IN
While you’re out skiing (and when it’s your
night to cook) Smart Meals of Kelowna will
be happy to discreetly drop by your Big White
condo and leave a complete and easy-to-prepare
luxe meal that will keep your family
or group wondering how you found all the
ingredients and created it all so quickly.
BEST BUG
The spruce beetle is chewing its way through
vast chunks of B.C. forest, and while Sun
Peaks is no exception, the resort is using the
beetle as a guide for cutting new ski runs.
In the Lonesome Fir Glade area, a whopping
30-hectares and 20 lines have either been
created or expanded to allow skiers of all levels
to experience the dynamic feel of glade skiing.
Crews at Sun Peaks worked with a foresters to
extract only infected trees. Wood shavings
were milled and pulped as well as recycled as
bedding for horses and snowboarders.
Other notable glading over the summer:
› Kicking Horse › Red Mountain
› Kimberley › Whistler-Blackcomb
› Marmot Basin › Fernie
BEST END OF AN ERA
The last of B.C.’s family-run ski hills,
Whitewater, near Nelson, was sold to a group
of businessmen from Calgary in the autumn.
Powder-pukey Whitewater has no slopeside
hotels or hot tubs, no sushi bars or golf clubs.
It does have a pile of dedicated ski bums,
however, who love their hill and might not be
so crazy about change. Put that in your pipe
and let the fireworks begin. (See Short Turns
this issue for more.)
WAY TO PUT UP YOUR
VIRTUAL HAND
Alpine Canada’s groovy new website
makes it easier to attract the more than 1,000 volunteers needed to run all the national level
ski races taking place in Canada this season. These include five World Cup races, four
IPC Para-Alpine World Cup races, Northwest Funds Coupe Nor-Am Cup, Pontiac GMC Canadian
Championships, Coupe Pontiac GMC Cup, Pontiac GMC Canadian J1 Championships and the
President’s Choice Canadian K2 Championships.
GROOMING
Yeah, yeah, we know all about the wonders of the Pisten
Bully, boys. But what about our mani-pedi needs?
› The Spa at Four Seasons Whistler › Spa Sans Sabots, Hotel Quintessence, Tremblant
› Temple Mountain Spa, Post Hotel, Lake Louise › Le Nordique Spa et Détente, Stoneham
› Willow Stream, Fairmont Banff Springs › Le Balnéa, Bromont
› Le Scandinave, Blue Mountain and Tremblant › Spa du Manoir, Manoir Saint-Sauveur
› Island Lake Lodge, Fernie › Mountain Spirit Resort & Spa, Kimberley
> The Spa at Four Seasons Whistler
LONGEST RUNNING
ANNUAL SKI
FUNDRAISER
2008 marked the 40th annual Alberta
Alpine Ski Celebration—an event
that once raised dollars to assist Nancy
Greene as she and her team waving a new
Canadian flag raced toward Olympic gold
in 1968. This annual event still draws the
Calgary ski community out to celebrate
some of the best ski racers in the world.
Originally hosted by Alastair Ross and
Joe Irwin, their sons, Stephen Ross and
Mike Irwin, have taken over the role to
raise funds to ensure Canada remains
competitive on the World Cup Tour.
BEST BARS AND APRÈS ANTICS
› Fernie’s Griz Bar, home of Naked Table Sliding, Kokanee Girls and Mogul Smokers.
› The GLC at Whistler, for friends, fire and booze.
› Rafters Bar at Red, originally the bunk rooms of the Red Mountain Ski Club, rich with
history, classic photos and what the French call atmosphere.
› Waverly Hotel, in Cumberland, B.C., not too far from Mount Washington—fab live music
mecca and serving swill since the 1920s.
› Howe Sound Brewing Company, Squamish—when the traffic is bad or the highway is
snowed in, make an easy turn off the road at the 7-Eleven for pool, music, fireplace and
real people.
› Fisherman’s Pub and Grill in Kaslo, West Kootenays, B.C.—good food and great rainbow
trout on the shores of Kootenay Lake.
› Après-ski HQs: past award winners like Gunbarrel Saloon at Apex, Snowshoe Sam’s at Big
White and Tremblant’s Le Shack and Le Diable.
BEST RESPONSE WHEN SOMEONE TELLS YOU TO GET LOST
Forget schlepping around
a separate GPS when
free
Fugawi Touratel
topographic mapping software for Canada
and the U.S. is available for your BlackBerry.
Pull up highly detailed outdoor maps while
you ski on-piste or off—as long as you’re
within cell range.
BEST GEM OF A
RESORT
Locals’ mountain, boutique destination
resort or part of an epic Okanagan road
trip? Apex wins all three hands down.
BEST ADDITION TO A
ROCKIES ROAD TRIP
Castle Mountain is the one ski area that
readers always want to try. With a staggering
amount of snow, aggressive terrain and nary
a lift line, what’s stopping you?
BEST TEENAGE
EXPERIENCE OF
THE YEAR
If you’re between 15 and 19 years
old and living in B.C.’s Sea to Sky
corridor, the 2010 Olympics wants
you...to volunteer. The Vancouver
Organizing Committee is still
looking for groups of 10, plus
an adult chaperone, to register
for volunteer projects. The real
bonus of being a local kid? Most
schools in the Sea to Sky corridor
will be closed during the Games.
BEST NEW SURGERY
Other than his lead codpiece (people often
wonder what’s worn under a downhill suit),
World Cup winner Todd Brooker was happy
to show off some new hardware installed
by one of the country’s top orthopaedic
surgeons, Bob Litchfield of London,
Ontario. Brooker’s Advanced Post-Traumatic
Osteoarthritis would have normally resulted
in a total knee replacement—along with
a restrictive “slow-down” order, something
Brooker wouldn’t accept. So bone-cutter
Litchfield suggested a High Tibial Osteotomy,
where a wedge of bone is removed to realign
the knee, in Brooker’s case 12 degrees. With
four major knee surgeries since 1979, and
13 orthroscopic procedures, Brooker is skiing
this winter and now up to a decade away
from that full knee replacement.
BEST VIEW FROM THE
BEST OFF-PISTE RUN
Stop and take it all in before you jump in to
Sunshine’s Delirium Dive. The spectacular
distraction is not what you need when
you’re picking your way down some of the
toughest lift-serviced terrain in the country.
BEST STRONG,
SILENT TYPE
The dynamic duo of Marmot Basin and
the town of Jasper are possibly the most
under-appreciated but wholly deserving
ski area in the country.
GREATEST LONGEVITY
IN THE DEEP STUFF
Brent McCorquodale, has been sharing
his corner of the Kootenays for 30 years
as of this season. We expect the Great
Northern Snowcat Skiing legend, will
be going another 30 before retirement.
BEST CELEBRITY
MOMENT
Gene Simmons’s appearance at last April’s
TELUS World Ski & Snowboard Festival
in Whistler brought out more skanky-ho
groupies (er, skimpily dressed girls) than
ever—and that’s going some distance.
BEST URBAN
RACE CLUB
Skiing in Toronto? Bring it on! Possibly
Canada’s smallest ski racing club with just 30
or so participating families, North York Alpine
Racing Club offers kids ages 6-19 ski racing
smack in the heart of Canada’s biggest city. The
Club trains at the North York Ski Centre with a
vertical drop of almost 50 metres.
BEST NEW EASTERN
POWDER POSSIBILITY
Le Massif added 10 hectares of off-piste
terrain to its books at nearby Mont a Liguori,
for a total of 14. The new terrain is accessed
from the 800-metre summit and finishes at
an elevation of 550 metres—the starting
point for off-piste skiing in the area last
season. Also, four intermediate and expert
glades have been added, along with La
Rigolette, a 200-metre hectare-sized glade
especially for children.
BEST NEW WAY OF
SELLING ICE TO THE
ESKIMOS
Doubtless the booming economy south of the
border will have the new direct air service
on Delta Airlines between Salt Lake City and
the Canadian Rockies International Airport
in Cranbrook, B.C., buzzing. Just 60 minutes
from Fernie and 20 minutes from Kimberley,
visitors from Utah can fly and ski deep
powder in the same day—just like home!
WORLD CUP VOTE OF
CONFIDENCE
The International Ski Federation (FIS) gave
the okay for Lake Louise to continue to host
races for the next four years. Lake Louise was
the fi rst resort outside Europe to be named
to the prestigious Club 5+, an organization
that brings together 13 of the most famous
and historic World Cup alpine racing courses
in the world.
BEST WELCOME TO THE
GREAT OUTDOORS
The Big Mountain Centre at Kicking Horse
delivers a whole mountain education—
in the mountains. A new concept that
provides big-mountain experiences and
progressive equipment in a safe and
controlled environment, BMC guides show
you how to manage yourself in all terrain
with avalanche awareness courses and onmountain
events.
BEST CHANCE TO SEE
GAP-YEAR PARTY
ANIMALS NOT DO THEIR
LAUNDRY
Now that everyone’s favourite made-for-TV
drama, Whistler, is lying on the cuttingroom
fl oor, enter the new, as of yet
unnamed, Whistler-based reality TV show.
It promises real-life outgoing, sociable
females and males, ages 18-25ish,
from anywhere in the world, profession
irrelevant, skiing or snowboarding skills
not necessary and no acting required. Sounds a bit like its predecessor,
but let's give it a shot.
BEST DISCO TUBING
Kicking Horse promises the best night out
you can have in tight ski pants and your
best winter disco wear. With laser lights,
a disco ball and dance floor hits from the
1970s, you can groove and slide in the
tube park in style.
BEST EXTRACURRICULAR SCHOOL CREDITS
Every year the Fernie Ski Patrol delivers an
Avalanche Awareness Campaign, educating
more than 1,200 students from Grades
1 through 12 about the importance of
avalanche safety in the backcountry.
BEST FAMILY SKI SCHOOL PROGRAM
The Family Discovery Program at Marmot
Basin helps families learn and improve as a
unit and gives tips on how to help each other
out on the slopes. A family that skis together,
stays together—or at least the instructor can
break up the fight.
BEST TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE
The Canadian Ski Museum and Canadian Ski Hall of Fame has a newly expanded website
with a new searchable online database to explore artifacts, photographs and archival materials
within the collections. You can search anything ski related: your favourite location, club or
personality. New items from the collection are being added continually.
BEST HALF AND HALFER
Start the day with the luxury of
a heli-drop and then follow with
some peaceful touring in epic
Rocky Mountain terrain and scenery.
At the end of the day it’s a heli ride
back with a home run down to the
deluxe mountainside Mica Heli lodge,
hot tubs, massage, gourmet cuisine and a
down duvet.
BEST JOBS FOR THE LEAST PAY
Thanks to the meeters and greeters, the
ski hosts who provide a key service to
visitors at so many ski resorts. These
dedicated volunteers offer free guided
tours to visitors, showing off their home
mountain with enthusiasm and in some
cases offering mountain tours that can
take hours. Perks for hosts range from
season passes to staff discounts.
BEST BOO AT A BEAR
Kicking Horse’s resident grizzly bear,
Boo, is often seen from the Golden
Eagle Express in mid-March just coming
out of his winter slumber. In summer,
the public can visit Boo any day of the
week at the KHMR Grizzly Bear Refuge.
BEST TRAINING CENTRE
It's agreed, the most-likely reason Hermann Maier won the
Super-G at Lake Louise
Winterstart in November was his pre-race training at Sun Peaks. In a five-year deal, the Austrians have exclusive rights to train at Sun Peaks. Not only that,
they plan to base part of their team there
during the Olympics. The schnitzel and pilsner at the Stombock Club helped the decision too.
BEST PLACE TO GET HIGH
The new $51-million Peak 2 Peak Gondola now spans the spectacular distance between Whistler and Blackcomb alpine. Two cabins have
glass bottoms enclosed by a barrier giving high-flyers a bird’s-eye view of Fitzsimmons Valley
below. It’s an 11-minute journey to infinite possibilities: new runs, new vistas and...well, like
the award suggests, if you can manage to get in a gondola with just 27 of your more openminded
mates…
BEST FIREPLACE IN THE ROCKIES
The uber-romantic Sitting Room at the Deer
Lodge in Lake Louise provides almost enough
reason to just stay in with a good book.
BEST CELEBS SIGHTINGS
After another thousand-dollar day with
Mike Wiegele, head down to the Legion
in Blue River, where you might share
a pickled egg with Keifer Sutherland,
John Cusack, Neve Campbell, Ivanka
Trump, Gerry Lopez, Laird Hamilton,
Gerhard Berger, Kevin Lowe, Prince
Albert, Princess Caroline, the Aga Khan,
Jake Burton, Warren Miller, His Royal
Highness what’s-his-face…..
BEST WAY TO MAKE YOUR PARENTS PROUD
Freedom Friday at Nakiska encourages
local university students to play hooky
on Fridays with a free bus ride for
students to and from Calgary’s closest
mountain, a barbecue, a Kokanee beer
voucher and an afternoon lift ticket.
BEST USE OF 270 METRES
Now hear this: the NBT (Next Big Thing)
is open for vertical inspection. The much-awaited
extra gondola vertical, joining the
village base to the main gondola station,
has given Revelstoke the big one-up
on Whistler, Jackson Hole and, in fact,
everyone else on the continent. With a
total of 1,713 metres, it’s the longest lift-serviced
vertical descent in North America.
Dig in. Oh, and the new resort village is
rolling out with a restaurant, stores and
rental shops. Fifty-nine condos are now
open in the Nelsen Lodge, and a high-speed
quad in the North Bowl area opened
an additional 364 hectares of intermediate
runs and tree skiing, as well as some
additional expert stuff. Lift-skiing, catskiing
and heli-skiing right from the
village base—like nowhere else. In fact,
it’s more like nowhere else than anywhere.
BEST KIDS’ TERRAIN PARK
At Sun Peaks, the children’s jumps and
rails are built to size, all at the base of the main chair—and served by a platter lift.
BEST PLACE TO BLOW UP STUFF
At the newly renovated Avalauncher Tower
at Fernie. With an enclosed cap and powder
magazine, and a stellar view, the patrol is out
there at the crack of dawn making the kind of
big morning noises we like to hear.
BEST SHOE-IN FOR LOCAL ENTREPRENEUR
Batawa Ski Hill in the Quinte region of Ontario
has a new Leitner/Poma quad chairlift this
season and local families are riding it in memory
of its founder, Thomas J. Bata, who died
September 2008. The head of Canada’s shoe
empire founded the ski hill in 1939 and it’s been
a traditional family ski hill ever since. Batawa
will maintain its T-bars to run for special events
and high volume holidays and weekends.
BEST SKI-IN/SKI-OUT VILLAGES
Leave your skis at the condo door when
you come “home” for lunch.
› Big White › Silver Star > Panorama > Sun Peaks
BEST NEW HOTEL IN WHISTLER
Nita Lake Lodge is a luxury boutique hotel that offers guests a tough choice: lakeview
room or mountain-view room. Included with both are great food, a cozy fireside
bar and a short walk to Creekside Village gondola, shops and restaurants.
BEST ALTERNATIVE TO A PRISONER ANKLE BRACELET
Australian-based SnowSports Interactive, in partnership with Sun Peaks, brings us
Flaik, the world’s first real-time GPS that tracks speed, vertical and distance. Rented by
the day (and with the help of TELUS, activated via cell phone), it automatically uploads
information over a wireless network to www.flaik.com, an online performance, location
and social network platform designed for the ski industry.
BEST AIR BUDDY IN A NEW WORLD
A year after RCR (Louise, Fernie and so on)
grounded freestylers from getting air by
dropping all jumps in its parks, Intrawest’s
Panorama went the opposite direction: big,
then bigger. In the Show Off Terrain Park,
almost one mile long and in full view of Pano’s
slopeside village and the Mile 1 Quad, highend
and beginner freestylers can build their
skills and, yes, actually leave the ground. As
well, the Small-Medium Park off the Toby Chair
is lit for nighttime fun.
MOST ORIGINAL SKI COUNTRY DRINK
Try a Vodka and Base at Tremblant’s
P’tit Caribou. Developed by owner Bob
Séguin, and his team of mad scientists, the
gingko and ginseng in straight Base does the
trick to avoid muscle soreness the next day.
(Or so they say.)
BEST REPLACED FACE
Following 20 years as the face of effective
turn completion, Rob Butler has retired
from “Pontiac World of Skiing,” replaced
by Josh Foster (Ski Canada’s November
cover boy) and Steve Young, winners of
a nationwide talent search. The two CSIA
Level IV instructors are filling the footbeds
admirably on World of Skiing
BEST CHOICE by those who
know weather best. Kimberley, of course!
Prairie farmers know where to go when
they’ve put the combine to bed.
BEST END-OF-SEASON DUMP
An Aaron Pritchett concert at Sunshine
Village had to be rescheduled last April 18
due to a major 50-cm spring snowstorm.
BEST EARLY SEASON, BEST LATE SEASON
Hold on to your tuques! Ontario wins the
2008 award hands down with its kneedeep
powder closing Collingwood in late
April 2008. Then after the coolest summer
in ages, ski areas opened in November,
one of the earliest openings ever in, yes,
knee-deep powder. Yes, Ontario!
BEST WAY TO WORK UP THE COURAGE TO TRY A
TERRAIN PARK
The new Progression Park’s positioning (right
beside the real thing at Blue Mountain) was
provided so you can watch and be inspired
by the pros while trying out some beginner
features like tabletops and flat boxes.
BEST ALPINE RESORTS IN SUMMER
› Silver Star › Sun Peaks › Whistler › Tremblant › Jasper › Blue Mountain
BEST SEAT IN THE HOUSE
At the romantic Hotel Quintessence in Tremblant a
secret chef’s table is tucked away in the kitchen for the
truly reclusive types who would rather be surrounded by
a herb garden and facing the lake than facing the public.